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Here now, are 25 of the essential Chinese restaurants in Los Angeles. Chef Kris Yenbamroong’s northern Thai crispy rice salad — made with soured pork, raw ginger, and a generous smattering of bird’s eye chiles — is not for the faint of heart. My parents immigrated to the US from Greece, so a love for octopus is ingrained in me. A great plate can immediately transport me back to childhood summer days spent in tavernas overlooking the Aegean Sea, our table covered in a seafood feast. Enzo Cecconi opened the first location in 1978, bringing "fresh pasta, beef carpaccio, tiramisu, and Bellini cocktails" to the British, according to the restaurant's website.
General Tsao's Chicken
The octopus had a soft texture — no easy feat with such a tricky protein. But the meat was so charred on the outside that it completely overwhelmed the flavor. My drink had a lovely sunny hue that brightened up the very cloudy LA day, with flavors to match. It was a sweet and zingy drink, and the ginger candy garnish was a fun touch. One of the highlights of our lunch was the extremely kind waiter, who highly recommended we get a pizza — which ended up being the best dish of the day.
Kung Pao Shrimp
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Standout dishes — including chef Tian’s famed Peking duck which requires reservations two days in advance — are served in a room that feels like a traditional Chinese courtyard from the Qing Dynasty. Red 99 Grill Bistro specializes in Shanghainese cuisine but also has a handful of Sichuan- and Hunan-style dishes on the menu. The signature dish is the red braised pork belly prepared with soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, and other spices; the gelatinous skin and fat melt easily in your mouth.
Soup
Other popular dishes include the cold eggplant salad, lamb tenderloin skewer, and sweet pork pita. Ji Rong is a San Gabriel Valley staple that specializes in traditional Peking duck, which comes with thin pancakes, shredded green onion, julienned cucumber, and hoisin sauce. The duck skin is sliced thinly over a layer of fatty and tender duck meat. The bones are all removed, making it easy for diners to make their own wraps. There are no walk-ins for Peking duck; make sure to call ahead and reserve a duck at least an hour and a half to two hours ahead. Although the Peking duck is the star dish, mapo tofu, stewed pork belly, kung pao chicken, and lamb skewers are also standout options.
Spicy beef soup at Yuk Dae Jang
Sichuan cuisine has taken the San Gabriel Valley by storm in recent years, but those in the know still head to Hunan Chilli King when they can for lots (and lots) of spice. The name delivers on its premise, with diced fresh chilis living somewhere between ‘garnish’ and ‘the whole meal’ on chopped and sautéed chicken dishes and more. For boneless chicken nuggets fried to a wonderful crisp and fragrant with Sichuan peppercorns, it doesn’t get any better than the Chongqing fried chicken at Xiang La Hui. It’s amazing how the mountain of fried chicken shrinks to a lowly pile of dried chiles and peppercorns in almost no time.
Eater LA main menu
Lan sources local beef to make a broth that is simmered for 10 hours every day and topped with house-made chile oil. Mojie Noodle is located in the tiny food court of President Square Plaza in Arcadia. The quick-service restaurant specializes in traditional Guilin rice noodles. The broth is made with boiled pork, ox bones, and various seasonings, with the most common ingredients being pork and pig offal.
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There’s also a slew of offal selections like chicken gizzard, heart, and even bull penis on a skewer. All skewers are accompanied by both spicy and non-spicy powders and sauces. Expect fine dining plus a show, as diners are treated to something like a traditional Beijing opera performance. Hot pots feature premium ingredients like imported fresh seafood and wagyu beef.
Mr Chopsticks Seafood & BBQ
This dish rarely appears on menus because of its complexity and lengthy preparation. Beggar’s chicken consists of marinated chicken wrapped tightly in layers of lotus leaves, parchment paper, and dough baked slowly on low heat. Other house specialties include stir-fried crab with rice cakes, braised pork belly, lion’s head pork meatballs, eight treasure rice pudding, and osmanthus glutinous rice balls.
Beef Garlic Sauce
Must-order dishes include the hand-shredded chicken and the salt and pepper wings lightly fried with garlic, chopped onion, and peppers. Dun Huang pulls eight different shapes of noodles, from extra-thin angel hair to extra-wide belts. Don’t forget to order a deep-fried flatbread marinated in cumin, Sichuan peppercorn, and dry chile oil.
Visit the Thai vendors outside of Lax-C — an emporium for Thai ingredients in Chinatown — for a fabulous rendition of julienned green papaya salad with dried shrimp and an unbeatable spicy dressing. This two-year-old Inglewood restaurant fits the bill for anyone craving traditional Jamaican fare. While the atmosphere was as lovely as the service, and we didn't have to wait long for our meal — all important factors in a good "power lunch" — the food just didn't live up to the hype. While it might have been power lunch hour, few people were in suits or business casual. Two very glamorous older women — perfectly coiffed hair, gold jewelry, Jackie O sunglasses — sat across from us.
Cecconi's cavatelli lamb ragù is $14 cheaper, but it's still a very pricey dish, and the flavors just didn't warrant the expense, in my experience. The cavatelli was chewy, overcooked, and only coated with a light layer of the ragù. Served alongside peppadew peppers, which added a kick of heat, the octopus was begging for something to brighten up the plate — whether it be a cooling sauce or a bigger splash of acidity. I had heard there was a secret Cecconi's burger, but our waiter revealed it only makes special appearances (usually during happy hour). I also inquired about the $26 "Piatto Unico" on the menu, which we learned is a lunchtime special that changes weekly and always features a protein, side, and salad. The phrase "power lunch" can bring to mind a vision of stuffy and dated interiors, but I loved the leather turquoise chairs and black-and-white striped floor in Cecconi's dining room.
Don’t forget to finish the meal with the osmanthus sweet soup with black sesame dumplings for dessert. Colette offers a variety of rare and unadvertised dishes, including stir-fried lobster sticky rice, lamb stew, and winter melon soup. Beloved dishes like beef chow fun, cola-glazed chicken wings, and salmon carpaccio are also on the menu. Tai Ping Sa Choi Kee is a Guangzhou-based chain specializing in beef brisket noodle soup as well as other Cantonese fare. Those willing to look beyond the surface will be rewarded with a fantastic meal.
There are three locations, and the newest in San Gabriel offers the most extensive menu of the three. Though it’s known for its Cantonese barbecue, Auntie Kitchen even offers the Hainan chicken rice. That dish comes with complimentary soup, and portions are generous while prices remain reasonable. Xiaolongkan, a well-known Sichuan hot pot chain in China, making in the United States courtesy of the restaurateurs affiliated with Chengdu Taste and Mian.
In addition to the standard meat selections like beef, chicken, and lamb, the menu encompasses various offal options, beef with raw egg, rose petal meatballs, and even spicy crawfish. Walk up to the clear glass window to watch a bowl come together — from kneading the dough, pulling the noodles, and assembling with a radish-beef broth, chile oil, fatty beef chunks, green onion, and cilantro. Auntie Kitchen is one of the most reliable restaurants serving traditional Cantonese fare.
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